THE USE OF FIRE-ARMS

Importance of early training—Why a gun is better than a rifle—How to
become a good shot

Whether a boy of fifteen should have a gun or a rifle is a question that parents will have to settle for themselves. There is no question but that a careful boy who has been taught by some older person how to handle a gun is more to be trusted than a man who has never learned the proper use of fire-arms and who takes up the sport of hunting after he is grown up. Most of the shooting accidents are caused by inexperienced men who have never been accustomed to guns in their younger days. Once or twice I have just missed being shot by friends who had never been hunting before, and who became so excited when they unexpectedly kicked up a rabbit or walked into a flock of quail that they fired the gun without knowing whether any of their friends were in range or not. When a boy is allowed to have a gun it should be a real one. Air rifles and small caliber guns are all the more dangerous, because they are often looked upon as toys.
In handling a gun, always treat it as though it were loaded, no matter if you know it is empty. By this means it will soon become second nature to you never to point the gun at any one even carelessly or in fun. A guide once said to me, “A gun is a dangerous critter without lock, stock, or barrel, and if a feller ever points one at me I think he means business.”

A gun can never be trusted. Accidents happen so quickly that it is over before we know it and the terrible damage is done. Sometimes the trigger will catch on a coat button or a twig, and, bang! an unexpected discharge takes place and if you were careless just for an instant, it may cost some one his life. Especial care must be taken in loading and unloading a gun. It is at this time that a gun is most likely to go off unexpectedly.
The best way to learn how to handle a gun is to watch the methods of an old hand. Never fire a gun when you are standing behind another person. You may know that you are not aiming at him, but the concussion of the air near the end of the barrel is terrific, and your friend may have a split ear drum as a result.
A shot-gun is better for a boy than a rifle, for the reason that most real shooting except for big game is done with a shot-gun, and besides, it takes a lot of practice to shoot well with it. A shot-gun is not a weapon for play but a real tool. In almost every section of the country there is some small game to be hunted and there is usually also an opportunity to practice at clay pigeons.
No one would think of hunting quail, ducks, or rabbits with a rifle, and even if you were an excellent rifle shot at a still mark you might not be able to hit moving game at all. A shot-gun is less dangerous for the reason that its range is limited to a little over a hundred yards, while a rifle may carry a mile. A cheap shot-gun is far more dangerous than a cheap rifle. Until it is possible to buy a good one it is better to have none at all. A good American-made gun can be bought for about twenty-five dollars. A gun suitable for its owner should fit just as his clothing fits him. When a gun is quickly brought to the shoulder in firing position, there is no time in actual hunting to shift it around. When you buy a gun, remember that your canvas or corduroy hunting coat makes more of a bulge at the shoulder than an ordinary suit and accordingly see that the stock is the proper length. The “drop” of a gun is the number of inches that the stock falls below the line of the barrel. If the stock is bent too much you will shoot under your game. If it is too straight the tendency will be to shoot over game. The average stock is made to fit most people and will probably answer most purposes unless you can afford to have a stock made especially. The principal thing is to do all your practicing with your own gun until it becomes second nature to bring it up quickly and have the eye find the barrel instantly. A shot-gun is not aimed in the same way as a rifle. The method of good shots is rather to keep their eye on the game and when they “feel” that the gun is pointed right to fire. A skillful shot can tell whether he is shooting too high or too low just as he pulls the trigger. The brain, head, and eyes and trigger-finger must all work in harmony or you will never be a good shot. Never flinch as you shoot. This is a very common fault of beginners and it is fatal to becoming a marksman.
The first lesson in handling a gun is to understand perfectly how it works. If it is a hammerless gun, remember that it is always cocked. When you open the barrels you cock the gun automatically. For this reason there is some kind of a safety device provided, which should always be left at “safe” except at the actual instant of firing. It is just as easy to learn to push the safety off when you fire as it is to learn to pull the trigger, if one starts right.
Never carry your gun with your finger on the trigger. Wait until you put the gun up as you are ready to shoot. Don’t forget the safety. A great many shots are missed because the hunter forgets whether he has left it on or off and in his anxiety to hit the game will tug and pull on the trigger until, just as the game disappears out of range, he will remember that he did not release it. This shows the importance of acquiring the proper habit at first.
It is harder to correct bad habits in handling a gun than to teach the beginner the proper way at first. On your first lesson in the field, walk on the left side of your teacher so that your gun will be pointing away from him. If you come across any game, try to take your time before you fire. Nearly every one shoots too quickly. As most shot-gun shooting is what is called snap shooting, there isn’t much time at best, but a good shot will be sure that he has covered his game before he fires, while a beginner will trust to luck. This will be the hardest fault to correct. Consequently a beginner should if possible hunt alone for a while, as the presence of another gun alongside of him makes him too anxious to get in the first shot, and gets him into bad habits.
If your teacher also has a gun, he must assure you that he does not intend to shoot and then you will try harder to get the game and run less chance of missing. Always unload a gun before going into a house, under or over a fence, or in or out of a boat or carriage. If you leave your gun, even for a minute, unload it. Never rest a loaded gun against a tree or building. Never pull a gun loaded or empty toward you by the muzzle. In unloading always point it toward the ground. A jar will sometimes discharge a gun and very often a discharge will take place when closing the breech on a tight shell.
Always be ready for game. In hunting, we never can tell at what instant it will rise up in front of us. “Be ready” does not mean having the muscles and nerves constantly on a tension. It is simply to carry your gun in such a position that you can quickly bring it to the shoulder at any time. It is a good plan to practice aiming at various objects as you go along until you gradually overcome your awkwardness.
It is difficult to say what makes a good shot with a gun. There is no question but that practice will make any one a better shot than he would be without it, but some people are better shots with very little practice than others with a great deal. One very important thing is to do your practicing under conditions similar to the actual hunting. If the cover is thick where you hunt, a swamp or brush lot for example, you will not derive much benefit from practicing entirely in the open. A pigeon trap is an inexpensive way to learn to shoot. Some experienced hunters will say that practice at clay pigeons does not help in the field, but at the same time a good brush shot is almost always a good trap shot and if you can become skillful enough to break an average of eighteen to twenty clay pigeons out of twenty-five at sixteen yards rise, you may be sure that you will get your share of game under actual hunting conditions.
The most difficult part of bird hunting is to learn to give the game a start. The average shot-gun will kill quail at sixty yards and duck at forty. The farther the game is away from us, provided it is within range, the more the shot will spread. I once saw a half-dozen hunters fire at a covey of quail that rose in an open field before they had gone thirty yards and every hunter scored a clean miss. Any one of these men could bring down his bird under the same conditions nine times out of ten if he had taken his time. On this occasion when their guns were empty another hunter who had withheld his fire said, “Are you all done, boys?” and shot a bird with each barrel at a measured fifty-eight yards. To kill a bird that another man has shot at is called “wiping his eye,” and it is the chief joy of an old hunter to do this with a beginner. If you do not want to let the old hunter wipe your eye, take your time.
Learn to shoot with your head well up and with both eyes open. When the game rises, keep your eye on it and at the instant that you see it on the end of your gun barrel, fire. The greatest joy of hunting is to see the game appear to tumble off the end of your gun barrel when it is hit. If there is a doubt as to whose bird it is, and this happens constantly as two people often shoot at the same time at the same bird, do not rush in and claim it. Remember you are a gentleman, but if you are sure that you hit it, at least stand for your rights.
So much of the pleasure of hunting depends on our companions that we must be considerate of the feelings of others as well as our own. Always hunt if possible with experienced hunters. You will not only have more fun, but you will run much less risk. In rabbit hunting, one is especially at the mercy of the beginner who fires wildly without any thought as to whose life he may be endangering, so long as he gets the rabbit. If you hunt with some one who owns the dogs, be very careful not to interfere with them by giving commands. As a rule the owner of a well-trained dog prefers to handle him without any help, and, while he may not tell you, you may be sure that he will resent it if you try to make the dog do your bidding when his master is around.
The pattern of a gun, as it is called, is the number of shot it will put within a circle at a given distance. As a rule the factory test pattern will be found on a tag attached to the gun. If not, you can easily get the pattern yourself. The usual distance for targeting a new gun is thirty yards, and the standard circle is thirty inches. Make a circle on the barn door with a piece of chalk and string fifteen inches long. First drive a nail into the wood and fasten the string to it with the chalk on the loose end. Then describe and measure ninety feet from the target. Fire as nearly as you can at the center of the circle and count the shot that are inside the chalk mark. In order not to count the same shot twice mark them off with a pencil. Perhaps a surer way would be to fire at the door first and in the center of the load of shot drive the nail and describe a circle afterward. The chief advantage of studying the pattern of your gun is to know just how much it scatters and how far it may be depended upon to shoot and kill.
In a choke-bore gun, the end of the barrel is drawn in slightly and made smaller to keep the shot together. Guns that are used in duck and goose hunting are usually full choked as most of the shots are long ones, but for ordinary brush and field shooting a gun that has a full cylinder right barrel and a modified choke on the left will be the best for general purposes.
The best size is 12-bore or gauge. Ten gauge guns are entirely too heavy for general use and the smaller bores, such as sixteen or even twenty gauge, while they are very light and dainty, are not a typical all around gun for a boy who can only afford to have one size. The smaller bores, however, have become very popular in recent years and much may be said in their favor.
The standard length of barrels is either twenty-eight or thirty inches. The shorter length will probably be just as satisfactory and makes a much better proportion between the stock and barrels. You can easily test the amount of choke in a 12-gauge gun. A new ten-cent piece will just go inside the end of the barrel of a full cylinder gun and just fail to go into one that has been slightly choked.
While it is impossible to give any written directions for shooting that are as valuable as actual practice, the important thing for a beginner is to get his form right at first, just as in golf or horseback riding, and then to make up his mind that every shot has got to count.
Rifle shooting is entirely different from shot-gun shooting and skill in one branch of the sport of marksmanship does not mean much in the other. A boy may be an excellent rifle shot at a stationary target and still not be able to hit “a flock of barns,” as the country boys say, with a shot-gun. Skill with a rifle is chiefly of value to those who are interested in military affairs and more rarely to those who are fortunate enough to have an opportunity for hunting big game. In settled communities there is a strong feeling against allowing boys to have rifles. Practically the only game that can be hunted will be our little friends, the song birds, and no self-respecting boy will shoot them. A small calibre rifle such as a 22-calibre Flobert will afford considerable pastime at target practice and is also excellent to hunt snakes and frogs along some brook or creek, but generally a boy with a rifle is a public nuisance, and as a rule is liable to arrest in possessing it. If we fix up a rifle range where there are no dangers of damage from spent bullets or badly aimed shots it is well enough to practice with a small rifle.
A real sporting rifle, such as is used for big game, is a very dangerous fire-arm and cannot be used with safety anywhere but in an absolute wilderness or on a target range. Such guns will kill at a mile and go through a tree a foot or two in diameter; to use such a weapon in even a sparsely settled section is very dangerous indeed. If a boy has any chance of going hunting for deer or moose, he will surely need practice and for this purpose a range will have to be selected where there is absolutely no danger to any one within a mile or two. A good practice range is across a lake or river with a bank of earth or clay to stop the bullets. Big game hunting is done so frequently from canoes that it is well to get practice from a boat, both moving and stationary. To shoot successfully from a sitting position in a canoe is a very difficult feat. Just as with a shot-gun the universal tendency is to shoot too quickly, with a rifle it is to shoot too high. The reason is that we hold our head so high up in looking at our game that we fail to see the rear sight at all. Be sure your head is low enough to see both sights.
Always hold your breath while you are taking aim. Learn to shoot from all sorts of positions, lying, sitting, kneeling, and standing. If the shot is a long one, be sure that your rear sight is properly elevated for the distance. Most of the shots at big game are stationary shots and within a hundred yards; consequently accuracy counts for more than quickness.
With a magazine or repeating rifle be sure that you have emptied your magazine before you leave the gun. With a shot-gun there is a possibility that the “person who didn’t know it was loaded” may not kill his victim outright. With a sporting rifle it is practically sure death.
The general rules of care apply to both rifles and shot-guns. Always clean the gun after you have taken it into the field. This is necessary whether you have fired the gun or not, as a gun barrel will always collect a certain amount of dampness. It is an excellent practice to keep a gun covered with oil or vaseline except when it is in use. It not only prevents rust, but the grease also discourages visitors and friends from handling the gun, snapping the trigger, or otherwise damaging it.
In this chapter, I have not said anything about revolvers or pistols, because I do not believe that any sensible boy will care to own one. A revolver is a constant source of danger owing to its short barrel, and as it has no practical value except as a weapon of defence, and as there is a severe penalty for carrying a concealed weapon, I should not care to recommend any boy to own a revolver.
The final question whether we may have a gun and what kind it should be, will depend very largely on the place we live. Any kind of a gun is very much out of place in cities or towns. The boy who does not really have an opportunity to use a gun should be too sensible to ask for one, for surely if we own it we shall constantly want to use it even at some risk. It will be far better to ask for something we can use and leave the gun question until the time when we have a real opportunity.
Finally we must remember that the one who has the gun in his possession is rarely the one that is accidentally shot. We should therefore avoid companions who do own guns and who are careless with them. No amount of care on our part will prevent some careless boy friend from risking our lives. The safer way is to stay home.

Gear Necessario per la pesca con Ninfe

Ora che abbiamo trattato ciò che ninfa pesca a mosca è tutto, diamo prossima un'occhiata a che tipo di sorta di volare attrezzi da pesca che si vuole necessità di farlo. Mentre ninfa pesca a mosca usa praticamente la stessa marcia si utilizza quando asciutto pesca a mosca, vi è una qualche piccoli oggetti che qualsiasi successo ninfa pescatore vorranno avere. Questi elementi sono indicatori di sciopero, alcuni piccoli pesi, e un buon paio di occhiali da sole pesca a mosca.

Strike Indicatori per la Pesca Ninfa

In primo luogo, avrete bisogno di alcuni indicatori di sciopero. Sciopero indicatori sono generalmente arancione, ungodly guardando le cose che vengono immessi sul vostro leader ben al di sopra del volo o sulla stessa linea di volo, allo svincolo della linea di volo e leader. Questi indicatori di sciopero sono ciò che si osserva quando ninfa pesca - non al volo stesso. Con la pratica e pazienza, sarà eventualmente essere in grado di dire quando "innaturale" movimenti verificarsi in sciopero indicatore - che molto probabilmente indica che un pesce appena preso il tuo volo ninfa imitazione.

esattamente dove mettere lo sciopero indicatore è una questione di qualche discussione, ma alla fine si riduce a ciò che stai per la pesca a mosca e dove si stanno facendo. Cauti Brown Trout pescato in acque fortemente, come il fiume Missouri, non sono suscettibili di essere reale selvatici circa vedere un oggetto luminoso di colore arancione, a pochi metri al volo. D'altra parte, più o gullible trota trote che ricevono meno volare pressione di pesca potrebbe probabilmente meno care about it. In breve, usa il tuo giudizio, traviati dalla parte di cautela (immissione lo sciopero come indicatore lontano dal volare il più possibile, per la sua abilità).

Piccola Pesi per Ninfa Pesca

seconda cosa devi per molti fiumi sono alcuni piccoli pesi da aggiungere al vostro volo di linea o leader. In molti, se non la maggior parte ninfa pesca a mosca situazioni, una linea di galleggiamento è ancora utilizzato. Tuttavia, per ottenere il volo verso il basso per la profondità che si desidera andare richiederà ponderazione (almeno in acqua più velocemente).

Questo è fatto meglio con il nuovo "twist" non tossici pesi che sono ora disponibile. L'utilizzo di questi tipi di pesi, un pescatore può mettere a più o meno peso, se necessario, per portare il volo verso il basso per profondità, mentre allo stesso tempo evitare l'inalazione di pesce tossico piombo (che può ucciderli).

Se si ha intenzione di attività di pesca in acque profonde veramente veloce o fiumi, dove anche un leader ponderata non otterrà il volo fino a profondità abbastanza veloce, allora si avrà anche voler guardare a investire in un lavandino-punta volare linea. Lavello-volare linee di punta hanno la punta della linea di volo ponderata per affondare, consentendo così di affondare la ninfa volare più rapidamente.

Occhiali da sole pesca a mosca per la pesca Ninfa

Un altro elemento di importanza pesanti è un buon paio di occhiali da sole polarizzati. E 'assolutamente indispensabile che siate in grado di vedere lo sciopero indicatore, polarizzate occhiali da sole e sono molto efficaci per questo.

Ausable fiume pesca al salmone

Get your attrezzi cranking. Sottoscrivere quelle verghe di 10 piedi e alcuni dei tuoi migliori attrae, perché stiamo andando per la pesca al salmone oltre a Ausable River, tra i pochi punti in cui la trota e salmone pesca è al suo meglio.

accuratamente, così pochi pesca hotspot può rivale Ausable Fiume per tutto l'anno trota e salmone pesca. E 'come se la presenza dei Grandi Laghi vicinanze possono già essere dato per scontato. Quindi, siete pronti per un Ausable fiume pesca al salmone viaggio?

Adirondack Sport Shop

PO Box 125, Wilmington, NY 12997

Contatto: (518) 946-2605

adirondackflyfishing.com

Adirondack Sport Shop è davvero a casa dei migliori Ausable fiume perché la pesca al salmone Mr Fran migliora, un veterano di pesca per oltre 50 anni esercita la supervisione sul suo funzionamento. Esso non si tratta solo di Fran migliora 'esperienza, è anche merito migliora' inerenti sentire su questo business. Adirondack Sport Shop non vi mostrano come essi catture di pesce, di garantire la loro cattura il tuo pesce. Impartendo abilità è una esperienza a parte la pesca che Fran migliora e il suo team di quattro guide pesca professionale conosce così bene.

Adirondack Sport Shop offre praticamente qualsiasi tipo di licenza servizio guida. Preferendo la Wade e pesci volanti viaggio? Che renderebbe Fran migliora sorriso, è un esperienza egli padronanza anni fa. Nulla duplicati la sfida e l'atmosfera di pesca a mosca sulla sponda. Wading viaggi sono così tanto di una specialità di Fran migliora e il suo team di quattro guide pesca professionale; di fatto è ciò che i ragazzi oltre Adirondack Sport Shop promuovere.

guide personalizzata che cosa sono fatte di pesca in modo molto utile . Ci sono lezioni di avviamento e la competenza dei controlli prima di cominciare? Ci sono verificare la discussione e le lezioni durante il pranzo? Controllo. Sono esercitazioni effettuate nel corso di colata prima volta? Controllo. Guide wade fare con te? Controllo. Ragazzi a fare Adirondack Sport Shop fare tutti questi? Verificare su di loro su questi.

Ausable fiume Sport Shop

PO Box 448 Wilmington NY 12997-0448

Contatto: (518) 946-1250

ausableriversportshop.com

John è stato un pescatore senso delle proporzioni. Egli ha catturato trofei a New York, Pennsylvania, Montana, Utah, Idaho, Canada, Nuova Zelanda, Cile, Australia ed Europa. Egli ha anche angolata con il miglior gioco su Maine e Florida. Giovanni quadrato con loro tutti: Barracuda, Tarpon, Permit, i salmoni e trote. Adesso, Ausable fiume Sport Shop ha catturato Giovanni. Ausable a Fiume Sport Shop, egli offre servizi di guida e fa in modo che non distruggere la sua reputazione di insegnamento è il ins e out di Ausable fiume pesca al salmone.

Un altro pescatore di proporzione è Tony. Della parità di pesca serie, Tony trascorso gli ultimi 50 anni pesca a mosca da Maine a North Carolina e anche per quanto riguarda Idaho, Wyoming e Montana. Quei giochi che sono stati perseguiti Bass, Pikes, Panfishes, e carpe. Ora che egli è un fiume Ausable Guida pesca al salmone, egli è pronto a condividere la sua conoscenza dei suoi 50 anni di esperienza di facile e intermedio pescatori. Tony, con la sua predilezione di pesca a mosca, è certificata comandante della vendita abbinata mosche, fonderia, e il tasso di adescamento wading pesci con mosche.

Ausable Salmon River

Molte persone elenco salmone pesca in alto di loro deve fare grafico. Se lo si fa, Ausable fiume pesca al salmone è sicuramente il vostro tempo vale la pena.

Anche se molte persone possono pensare che non si riesce a trovare buone salmone pesca al di fuori di Alaska o British Columbia - questo non è vero. Molti Stati negli Stati Uniti offrono salmone pesca, e del Michigan è uno dei migliori in questo senso. La pesca è una grande esperienza nel Midwest, Michigan e il Lago Huron è un posto ideale per le persone in cerca di trovare walleye e di altri pesci clima settentrionale. Un altro grande posto qui è la Ausable fiume, la pesca al salmone qui può essere molto gratificante quando si sceglie questo settore pesca per il tuo viaggio.

Il Ausable fiume, insieme con il vicino fiume Betsie, hanno molti salmone che migrano a loro acque dal lago Michigan. Sia salmone Chinook e re salmone prevalenti sono qui, con agosto a novembre sembrano essere un primo tempo per la cattura di questi pesci sulla loro riproduzione di queste corse fiumi. Ausable fiume pesca al salmone può essere una sfida, a causa del fatto che questi pesci possono essere facilmente spooked e non vanno sempre per lo stesso attrae, ma vero pescatori sportivi potranno godere la sfida che pone questi pesci.

Mentre scegliendo di pesce in questa parte del Michigan, sarà sicuramente bisogno di un posto di soggiorno. Molte piccole cabine e motel e alberghi offrono comfort rustico all'aperto a persone che sono su un viaggio di pesca. Ausable il River Valley detiene le città che hanno diversi punti di alloggi, con città come East Tawas offrendo campeggi, case, chalet e le località. La Timberlane Resort, situato in East Tawas vicino Lago Huron, questo sito vi offre l'opportunità non solo di fare un po Ausable fiume pesca al salmone, ma anche di pesce per altre specie nel Lago Huron.

Ausable fiume offre anche altri paesaggistico e storico cose da vedere e da fare, per quei tempi, quando avete bisogno di una pausa da pesca. Qui, la Tawas Point e Point Sturgeon fari, sia costruito nel 1800, offrono alcuni paesaggio bello. Trova anche qui sono molti luoghi in cui per visualizzare varia fauna selvatica nativo della zona. Pesca in questa parte del Michigan può essere una grande vacanza della famiglia e, a causa delle diverse attività disponibili per soddisfare tutti i gusti.

Ausable fiume pesca al salmone offre la sfida e la ricompensa che molti pescatori ha bisogno. Ricordo, una licenza di pesca è necessaria se si sceglie di pesce qui, anche se sei un non residente (fino a quando sei su 17), e possono essere acquistati o annualmente o per solo 24 ore. Si avrà bisogno di una licenza illimitata se si pesca al salmone.

Avendo il corretto Pesca Polo e accessori

Per l'occhio inesperto, un polo di pesca, è un polo di pesca, è un polo di pesca! Ma per il pescatore esperto un polo è il 1 ° elemento nella lista delle cose che si devono avere diritto di prendere un pesce. Ci sono pesanti acqua salata poli che sono fatte per la cattura di qualcosa di grande l'oceano. E se l'acqua salata di pesca è ciò che avete in mente allora il mostro polo è esattamente ciò di cui avete bisogno. Una persona potrebbe pensare che l'acqua salata polo è il modo per andare con tutti i tipi di pesca. Il più grande è il più grande polo il pesce, tipo di pensiero. Ma come pesanti come quelli acqua salata poli sono, ci vuole un grande pesce a sapere anche che avete qualcosa sul vostro linea di pesca. Anche le barche si uscire a pescare sul mare hanno polo titolari di aiutarti a organizzare e controllare il vostro palo. Tali poli sono troppo pesanti e scomodi da usare per la pesca d'acqua dolce. Di pesca in una qualsiasi delle acque dolci fiumi, laghi, stagni o castoro si può andare con un accendino canna da pesca. Nella maggior parte dei negozi si trova poli segnate medie, luce, luce ed extra. Il più leggero il palo, il più piccolo il pesce vi sentirete a la fine del verga. Che chiama l'azione di un palo. Ora che significa sentire il morso di pesce l'esca, non la taglia dei pesci il polo in grado di catturare. Ma se si va troppo luce si corre il rischio di rompere il vostro palo quando si cerca di portare in un pesce.

Se si va con un accendino polo (un extra luce è il mio preferito per la sua azione) è possibile carne bovina è un po 'di andare a pesca linea pesante abbastanza per gestire la taglia dei pesci il tuo aspetto di cattura. I pesci castoro stagni e laghi di montagna più che è il motivo per cui un ulteriore luce opere per me. Se il tuo pesca nel sud per un grande 'olo lupo di mare, si farà meglio con un polo d'azione medie. Poi c'è anche un volo polo che può essere utilizzato in acqua fresca fatta eccezione per la pesca o la pesca trolling per qualcosa come lupo di mare (che stanno in basso alimentatori, si utilizza un polo per volare sopra l'acqua alimentatori come la trota arcobaleno). Una volta a capire dove si vuole pesce e scegliere il polo meglio per voi, quindi si decide del peso della linea di pesca. Da questo punto sul tuo forniture che avete bisogno di dipendere da dove il vostro andando a pescare e le condizioni ambientali. Raccomando cercando di mettere insieme un ben rifornito affrontare casella di coprire il fabbisogno per diversi tipi di pesca e condizioni diverse.

Avrai bisogno supplementare di pesca linea, ganci di varie dimensioni, sinkers, bobbers, un assortimento di mosche , Salmone, uova, e le altre esche. Un piccolo ma forte coltello, un paio di forbici, uno stringer di mettere il pesce pescato a voi, e un pesce scala. Per il Rookie vorrei raccomandare un libro principianti a spiegare alcune delle informazioni di base su luce, acqua chiarezza e di alcune altre cose. Un'altra cosa che ho sempre fare in occasione della preparazione di pesce in una nuova area, è quello di parlare con i nativi. Chiedere alla ragazza al banco del negozio di pesca affrontare ciò che il pesce è a mordere e dove sono le zone calde. Con il tempo e la pratica si svilupperà la propria tecnica e capire quali polo, linea, esche e funzionano meglio per voi. C'è solo una cosa sinistra .... Non dimenticare di acquistare la licenza di pesca! Oh e Buon divertimento!!

Avete mai sentito parlare di un "Creek Chub Perch Scala Wigglefish"?

Io ti sente dire ora… .. uno Creek pesce cavedano scala wiggle pesce? Ciò che nel mondo è questo? Ebbene, dal momento che lei ha chiesto, ho intenzione di dire. E 'il richiamo che catturato il record mondiale dei bassi più di 73 anni fa.

Yep, George W. Perry, è stata la pesca con questo richiamo il 2 giugno 1932, quando aveva 19 anni per la cattura di cibo per mangiare. Invece ha catturato il pesce di una vita, un 22 libra 4 once largemouth basso. George e un amico di nome JE Page è stato Montgomery Lago di pesca in Georgia, quando George catturato il 32 1 / 2 pollici in lunghezza e 28 1 / 2 pollici in circonferenza largemouth basso.

Il pesce è stata presa a Helena, la Georgia dove il pesce è stato pesato, misurato, registrati e notorized. Chiedo quanti once è stato perso in viaggio per Helena? Dal momento che il record è stato in piedi per lungo tempo la largemouth bass della Georgia è membro ufficiale di pesce.

Se si desidera che il pesce stesso lago in cui il record mondiale è stato catturato è parte del Dipartimento del Territorio Risorse 'Horse Creek Area gestione della fauna selvatica.

Ti ho citato quanto George ha ottenuto per la cattura di questo mostro di pesce? Ebbene, campo e Stream è stata che hanno una pesca sportiva e per questo incredibile pesce George ricevuto un totale di $ 75,00. Oggi un record mondiale dei bassi sarebbe partono da $ 8000000 e andare verso l'alto, più convalide.

George è morto in un incidente aereo nel 1974.

Charles E. White ha pescato 50 anni per il basso dalla California alla Florida . Nella sua vita, si stima che egli ha catturato più di 6000 toni bassi. Il suo più grande bassista è un 12 libra 14 once che incombe sulla sua parete nel suo ufficio. Il suo suggerimenti e tecniche hanno aiutato molte persone che non hanno mai pescato per basso prima di diventare pescatori di successo. Ha anche la pesca con la Pro in Florida. Il suo sito web è all'indirizzo:

Se ne ha veramente bisogno di tutti i Tackle che la pesca

Hai probabilmente stato chiesto che la questione un paio di volte, non hanno te? So che mia moglie lo porta fino abbastanza spesso.

Ma seriamente, la quantità di pesca si ha realmente bisogno? Quante bobine? Quante barre? Quante attrae?

Ti ricordi quando eri un bambino? Quando si è andato pesca ciò che avete fatto nel modo in cui affrontare delle attività di pesca? Se si erano come me e miei fratelli, probabilmente ha avuto un polo di canna da pesca, alcuni di pesca linea, a pochi sinkers, un paio di ganci, un bobber e una lattina di vermi. Che è stato!

Un po 'più tardi potrebbe essere salvati fino po' di soldi per l'acquisto di un Zebco 33 verga e bobina combinazione. Probabilmente hai acquistato anche un po 'di affrontare la casella per mantenere il vostro sinkers, linea, ganci e bobbers organizzato. Potrebbe essere anche raccolto un paio di esche, perché siete stati bassi di pesca e adesso che si deve alcuni filatori, subacquei, per togliere il gancio e pochi altri varie cose bassi di pesca. Ma ancora, non hanno avuto un sacco di pesca.

Che cosa è successo? Dove ha fatto tutto questo tipo di pesca provengono da affrontare?

Beh, alcuni dei quali solo accumulato. Sai che non posso gettare un buon perfettamente verga o bobine di distanza, anche se non hai utilizzato in anni. Potrebbe essere necessario che un giorno i vostri figli o nipoti o potrebbe desiderare a pescare con esso. E come dice il mio papà "E 'non mangiare nulla."

Ma si vede, questo è ciò che tua moglie, quando vede in lei va il tuo negozio o garage. Tutto questo accumulati pesca affrontare l'aspetto di un sacco di roba di pesca a lei. E potete scommettere che non lo capiranno quando si tenta di spiegare a lei che si ha realmente bisogno per avere una bacchetta di surf casting e bobina per il tuo soggiorno gita al mare. Non importa che ha un centinaio di paia di scarpe e solo due piedi - argomento che probabilmente non è battere la gonna.

Quindi, se si sta andando per ottenere più affrontare la pesca, si ' re appena avrà per sbarazzarsi di alcune delle cose che accumulate. Ora potete effettivamente eliminare il tuo materiale o di pesca si può essere un po 'ambiguo e tenerlo, ma farla uscire dal modo. Vado per il modo devious me perché io veramente non vogliono sbarazzarsi della mia roba.

Ora, se si dispone di un pick-up camion potete ottenere voi uno di quei grandi strumento caselle che vanno a letto. Mantenere il tuo Extra nel fondo dello strumento casella. Lei è mai andando a salire lassù per controllare ma tenerlo bloccato nel caso in cui.

Se non si dispone di un pickup truck poi forse hai un amico che è unico che permetterà si stash il tuo extra pesca affrontare nella sua sede.

Okay, ho aiutato fuori tutto quello che posso. Se questi suggerimenti non funzionerà per voi venite con qualcosa da soli. Se viene peggio in peggio, potrebbe essere effettivamente necessario sbarazzarsi di alcune delle vostre pesca affrontare. So! So! E 'un inferno di un pensiero. Ma so arriverete fino a un piano. Dopo tutto, è davvero bisogno di tutti che la pesca affrontare.

The wilderness traveler

On the other hand, some country boys who have kept their ears and eyes open will know more about the wild life of the woods than people who attempt to write books about it; myself, for example. I have a boy friend up in Maine who can fell a tree as big around as his body in ten minutes, and furthermore he can drop it in any direction that he wants to without leaving it hanging up in the branches of some other tree or dropping it in a soft place where the logging team cannot possibly haul it out without miring the horses. The stump will be almost as clean and flat as a saw-cut. This boy can also build a log cabin, chink up the cracks with clay and moss and furnish it with benches and tables that he has made, with no other tools than an axe and a jackknife. He can make a rope out of a grape-vine or patch a hole in his birch bark canoe with a piece of bark and a little spruce gum. He can take you out in the woods and go for miles with never a thought of getting lost, tell you the names of the different birds and their calls, what berries are good to eat, where the partridge nests or the moose feeds, and so on. If you could go around with him for a month, you would learn more real woodcraft than books could tell you in a lifetime. And this boy cannot even read or write and probably never heard the word “woodcraft.” His school has been the school of hard knocks. He knows these things as a matter of course just as you know your way home from school. His father is a woodchopper and has taught him to take care of himself.
If you desire to become a good woodsman, the first and most important thing is to learn to use an axe. Patent folding hatchets are well enough in their way, but for real woodchopping an axe is the only thing. One of four pounds is about the right weight for a beginner. As it comes from the store, the edge will be far too thick and clumsy to do good work. First have it carefully ground by an expert and watch how he does it.
If I were a country boy I should be more proud of skillful axemanship than to be pitcher on the village nine. With a good axe, a good rifle, and a good knife, a man can take care of himself in the woods for days, and the axe is more important even than the rifle.

The easiest way to learn to be an axeman is to make the acquaintance of some woodchopper in your neigborhood. But let me warn you. Never ask him to lend you his axe. You would not be friends very long if you did. You must have one of your own, and let it be like your watch or your toothbrush, your own personal property.

A cheap axe is poor economy. The brightest paint and the gaudiest labels do not always mean the best steel. Your friend the woodchopper will tell you what kind to buy in your neigborhood. The handle should be straight-grained hickory and before buying it you will run your eye along it to see that the helve is not warped or twisted and that there are no knots or bad places in it. The hang of an axe is the way the handle or helve is fitted to the head. An expert woodchopper is rarely satisfied with the heft of an axe as it comes from the store. He prefers to hang his own. In fact, most woodchoppers prefer to make their own axe handles.

You will need a stone to keep a keen edge on the axe. No one can do good work with a dull blade, and an edge that has been nicked by chopping into the ground or hitting a stone is absolutely inexcusable.
To chop a tree, first be sure that the owner is willing to have it chopped. Then decide in which direction you wish it to fall. This will be determined by the kind of ground, closeness of other trees, and the presence of brush or undergrowth. When a tree has fallen the woodchopper’s work has only begun. He must chop off the branches, cut and split the main trunk, and either make sawlogs or cordwood lengths. Hence the importance of obtaining a good lie for the tree.

Before beginning to chop the tree, cut away all the brush, vines, and undergrowth around its butt as far as you will swing the axe. This is very important as many of the accidents with an axe result from neglect of this precaution. As we swing the axe it may catch on a bush or branch over our head, which causes a glancing blow and a possible accident. Be careful not to dull the axe in cutting brush. You can often do more damage to its edge with undergrowth no thicker than one’s finger than in chopping a tree a foot through. If the brush is very light, it will often be better to use your jack-knife.

In cutting a tree, first make two nicks or notches in the bark on the side to which you wish it to fall and as far apart as half the diameter of the tree. Then begin to swing the axe slowly and without trying to bury its head at every blow and prying it loose again, but with regular strokes first across the grain at the bottom and then in a slanting direction at the top. The size of the chips you make will be a measure of your degree of skill. Hold the handle rather loosely and keep your eye on the place you wish to hit and not on the axe. Do not work around the tree or girdle it but keep right at the notch you are making until it is half way through the tree. Do not shift your feet at every blow or rise up on your toes. This would tire even an old woodchopper in a short time. See that you do not set yourself too fast a pace at first. A beginner always starts with too small a notch. See to it that yours is wide enough in the start.
 
When you have cut about half way through, go to the other side of the tree and start another notch a little higher than the first one. A skilled man can chop either right-or left-handed but this is very difficult for a beginner. If you are naturally right-handed, the quickest way to learn left-handed wood chopping is to study your usual position and note where you naturally place your feet and hands. Then reverse all this and keep at it from the left-handed position until it becomes second nature to you and you can chop equally well from either position. This you may learn in a week or you may never learn it. It is a lot easier to write about than it is to do.

When the tree begins to creak and show signs of toppling over, give it a few sharp blows and as it falls jump sideways. Never jump or run backward. This is one way that men get killed in the woods. A falling tree will often kick backward like a shot. It will rarely go far to either side. Of course a falling tree is a source of danger anyway, so you must always be on your guard.

If you wish to cut the fallen tree into logs, for a cabin, for instance, you will often have to jump on top of it and cut between your feet. This requires skill and for that reason I place a knowledge of axemanship ahead of anything else in woodcraft except cooking. With a crosscut saw, we can make better looking logs and with less work.

Next to knowing how to chop a tree is knowing what kind of a tree to chop. Different varieties possess entirely different qualities. The amateur woodchopper will note a great difference between chopping a second growth chestnut and a tough old apple tree. We must learn that some trees, like oak, sugar maple, dogwood, ash, cherry, walnut, beech, and elm are very hard and that most of the evergreens are soft, such as spruce, pine, arbor vitae, as well as the poplars and birches. It is easy to remember that lignum vitae is one of the hardest woods and arbor vitae one of the softest. Some woods, like cedar, chestnut, white birch, ash, and white oak, are easy to split, and wild cherry, sugar maple, hemlock, and sycamore are all but unsplitable. We decide the kind of a tree to cut by the use to which it is to be put. For the bottom course of a log cabin, we place logs like cedar, chestnut, or white oak because we know that they do not rot quickly in contact with the ground. We always try to get straight logs because we know that it is all but impossible to build a log house of twisted or crooked ones.
It is a very common custom for beginners to make camp furniture, posts, and fences of white birch. This is due to the fact that the wood is easily worked and gives us very pretty effects. Birch however is not at all durable and if we expect to use our camp for more than one season we must expect to replace the birch every year or two. Rustic furniture made of cedar will last for years and is far superior to birch.
Getting lost in the woods may be a very serious thing. If you are a city boy used to signboards, street corners, and familiar buildings you may laugh at the country boy who is afraid to go to a big city because he may get lost, but he knows what being lost means at home and he fails to realize when he is in a city how easy it is to ask the nearest policeman or passer-by the way home. Most city boys will be lost in the woods within five minutes after they leave their camp or tent. If you have no confidence in yourself and if you are in a wilderness like the North woods, do not venture very far from home alone until you are more expert.

It is difficult to say when we are really lost in the woods. As long as we think we know the way home we are not lost even if we may be absolutely wrong in our opinion of the proper direction. In such a case we may soon find our mistake and get on the right track again. When we are really lost is when suddenly a haunting fear comes over us that we do not know the way home. Then we lose our heads as well as our way and often become like crazy people.

A sense of direction is a gift or instinct. It is the thing that enables a carrier pigeon that has been taken, shut up in a basket say from New York to Chicago, to make a few circles in the air when liberated and start out for home, and by this sense to fly a thousand miles without a single familiar landmark to guide him and finally land at his home loft tired and hungry.

No human being ever had this power to the same extent as a pigeon, but some people seem to keep a sense of direction and a knowledge of the points of compass in a strange place without really making an effort to do it. One thing is sure. If we are traveling in a strange country we must always keep our eyes and ears open if we expect to find our way alone. We must never trust too implicitly in any “sense of direction.”

Forest travelers are always on the lookout for peculiar landmarks that they will recognize if they see them again. Oddly shaped trees, rocks, or stumps, the direction of watercourses and trails, the position of the sun, all these things will help us to find our way out of the woods when a less observing traveler who simply tries to remember the direction he has traveled may become terrified.

Rules which tell people what to do when they are lost are rarely of much use, because the act of losing our way brings with it such a confusion of mind that it would be like printing directions for terror stricken people who are drowning.

Suppose, for example, a boy goes camping for a week or two in the Adirondacks or Maine woods. If he expects to go about alone, his first step should be to become familiar with the general lay of the land, the direction of cities, towns, settlements, mountain ranges, lakes, and rivers in the section where he is going, and especially with the location of other camps, railroads, lumber camps, and so on in his immediate neigborhood, say within a five-mile radius. It is an excellent plan to take along a sectional map which can usually be bought of the state geologist. One can by asking questions also learn many things from the natives.

Such a boy may start out from his camp, which is on the shore of a lake, for example, on an afternoon’s fishing or hunting trip. If he is careful he will always consult his compass to keep in mind the general direction in which he travels. He will also tell his friends at camp where he expects to go. If he has no compass, he at least knows that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west and he can easily remember whether he has traveled toward the setting sun or away from it. Rules for telling the points of compass by the thickness of the bark or moss on trees are well enough for story books. They are not of much value to a man lost in the woods.

Suddenly, say at four o’clock, this boy decides to “turn around” and go back to camp. And then the awful feeling comes to him that he doesn’t know which way to turn. The woods take on a strange and unfamiliar look. He is lost. The harder he tries to decide which way the camp lies, the worse his confusion becomes. If he would only collect his thoughts and like the Indian say “Ugh! Indian not lost, Indian here. Wigwam lost,” he probably would soon get his bearings. It is one thing to lose your way and another to lose your head.

When you are lost, you are confused, and the only rule to remember is to sit down on the nearest rock or stump and wait until you get over being “rattled.” Then ask yourself, “How far have I gone since I was not sure of my way?” and also, “How far am I from camp?” If you have been out three hours and have walked pretty steadily, you may have gone five miles. Unless you have traveled in a straight line and at a rapid pace, the chances are that you are not more than half that distance. But even two or three miles in strange woods is a long distance. You may at least be sure that you must not expect to find camp by rushing about here and there for ten minutes.
We have all heard how lost people will travel in circles and keep passing the same place time after time without knowing it. This is true and many explanations have been attempted. One man says that we naturally take longer steps with our right leg because it is the stronger; another thinks that our heart has something to do with it, and so on. Why we do this no one really knows, but it seems to be a fact. Therefore, before a lost person starts to hunt for camp, he should blaze a tree that he can see from any direction. Blazing simply means cutting the bark and stripping it on all four sides. If you have no hatchet a knife will do, but be sure to make a blaze that will show at some distance, not only for your own benefit but to guide a searching party that may come out to look for you. You can mark an arrow to point the direction that you are going, or if you have pencil and notebook even leave a note for your friends telling them your predicament. This may all seem unnecessary at the time but if you are really lost, nothing is unnecessary that will help you to find yourself.
As you go along give an occasional whack at a tree with your hatchet to mark the bark or bend over the twigs and underbrush in the direction of your course. The thicker the undergrowth the more blaze marks you must make. Haste is not so important as caution. You may go a number of miles and at the end be deeper in the woods than ever, but your friends who are looking for you, if they can run across one of your blazes, will soon find you.

When you are certain that you will not be able to find your way out before dark, there is not much use of going any farther. The thing to do then is to stop and prepare for passing the night in the woods while it is still daylight. Go up on the highest point of ground, build a leanto and make your camp-fire. If you have no matches, you can sometimes start a fire by striking your knife blade with a piece of flint or quartz, a hard white stone that is common nearly everywhere. The sparks should fall in some dry tinder or punk and the little fire coaxed along until you get a blaze. There are many kinds of tinder used in the woods, dried puff balls, “dotey” or rotten wood that is not damp, charred cotton cloth, dry moss, and so on. In the pitch pine country, the best kindlings after we have caught a tiny blaze are splinters taken from the heart of a decayed pine log. They are full of resin and will burn like fireworks. The Southerners call it “light-wood.”
Dry birch bark also makes excellent kindlings. A universal signal of distress in the woods that is almost like the flag upside down on shipboard is to build two smoky fires a hundred yards or more apart. One fire means a camp, two fires means trouble.

Another signal is two gunshots fired quickly, a pause to count ten and then a third. Always listen after you have given this signal to see if it is answered. Give your friends time enough to get the gun loaded at camp. Always have a signal code arranged and understood by your party before you attempt to go it alone. You may never need it but if you do you will need it badly.

Sometimes we can get our bearings by climbing a tree. Another aid to determine our direction is this: Usually all the brooks and water courses near a large lake or river flow into it. If you are sure that you haven’t crossed a ridge or divide, the surest way back home if camp is on a lake is to follow down the first brook or spring you come across. It will probably bring you up at the lake, sooner or later.

On a clear night you can tell the points of compass from the stars. Whether a boy or girl is a camper or not, they surely ought to know how to do this. Have some one point out to you the constellation called the “dipper.” It is very conspicuous and when you have once learned to know it you will always recognize it as an old friend. The value of the dipper is this: The two stars that form the lower corners of its imaginary bowl are sometimes called the “north star pointers.” The north star or Polaris, because of its position with reference to the earth, never seems to move. If you draw an imaginary line through the two pointers up into the heavens, the first bright star you come to, which is just a little to the right of this line, is the north star. It is not very bright or conspicuous like Venus or Mars but it has pointed the north to sailors over the uncharted seas for hundreds of years. By all means make the acquaintance of Polaris.

Salton YM9 1-Quart Yogurt Maker

Salton Yogurt Maker



Salton Automatic Yogurt Maker Features & Specifications Automatic Yogurt Maker - Salton YM9 The Salton YM9 Yogurt Maker is a simple, accessible to use, baby and quick yogurt maker!nbsp It aloof takes 4-10 hours to accomplish (depending on the adapted tartness).nbsp For arctic yogurt a few added hours are required.nbsp Yogurt is a abundant advantageous bite for the absolute family!nbsp Use the accessible compound book which is included for alike added beginning yogurt ideas.nbsp Features of the Salton Yogurt Maker: Makes up to 1 quart Temperature controlled Power bond accumulator Internal alembic is freezer safe See-through lid Clean alembic and lid with hot bubbling water, abject with balmy bolt Comes with Compound book Measuring beanery Bond storage

Yogurt is a great, guilt-free bite for both adults and kids. With this yogurt maker, it's accessible to add admired flavors--including alien and candied fruits, affluent brittle nuts, and accustomed sweeteners--to basal yogurt. Aloof chase the recipes, supplied by the manufacturer, and a alimental snack, with actual little fat and no preservatives (like best bartering brands), is not too far away. Authoritative yogurt takes from 4 to 10 hours to process, depending on adapted acidity of the batch. If you're attractive for arctic yogurt, you do accept to arctic it for 2 hours in the freezer afore burning afterwards it's made. The yogurt can be stored up to one week.

I bought this yogurt maker 2 1/2 years ago and acclimated it regularly. However, back the contempo BPA alarm came out, I contacted the aggregation to ask if it contains BPA. At aboriginal they did not acknowledge to me at all. Back I approved again, they beatific me a antic boilerplate bulletin about how the US gov't does not see BPA as actuality dangerous. I would acerb acclaim application a non-plastic yogurt maker (or at atomic one that doesn't accommodate BPA, as the actinic abnormally leaches into aliment back heated, and the accomplished point of a yogurt maker is to bear the yogurt at the able temperature) rather than risking advertisement your ancestors to added of this actinic than they accept already gotten. It's abashing to anticipate I was accomplishing article advantageous for my sons by authoritative them bootleg yogurt instead of the storebought find, alone to apprentice that they were apparent to added bpa because of this maker. I am application the bottle jar adjustment now.

Server Admin Tools 10.5.3

Server Admin Tools 10.5.3: "

About Server Admin Tools 10.5.3 This disc contains remote administration tools, documentation, and utilities that you can install on a computer other than your server. For detailed information on this update, please visit this website: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1283 Installers The Server Administration Software installer package contains tools for remote server administration. These applications require Mac OS X version 10.5 or later. If you received this administration tools disc with an Xserve, the Apple Xserve Diagnostics software is also available for diagnosing certain Xserve hardware issues. Server Assistant Use the Server Assistant application to install or set up Mac OS X Server on a remote computer. Server Assistant is primarily used for the set up of Xserve systems without an attached display. Server Preferences and Server Status widget The Server Preferences application and Server Status widget are for remote administration and monitoring of your server when set up in either the standard or workgroup server configurations. Server Admin The Server Admin application is for remote administration of one or more servers. It can be used to manage file share points, configure service settings, monitor server activity, and provide detailed logging information for each of the running services. Server Monitor Server Monitor is for the remote monitoring and management of one or more Xserve systems. Workgroup Manager Use Workgroup Manager to remotely manage users, groups, and computer accounts in advanced server deployments. Workgroup Manager is also used to set and manage preferences for Mac OS X users. System Image Utility The System Image Utility application is for the creation and customization of NetBoot and NetInstall images. Xgrid Admin The Xgrid Admin application allows administrators to remotely manage clusters and monitor the activity of controllers, agents, and the status of jobs on the grid. QuickTime Broadcaster Use QuickTime Broadcaster along with QuickTime Streaming Server to produce professional-quality live events. The QuickTime Broadcaster application can be used to capture live audio and video streams and transmit them to QuickTime Streaming Server for redistribution. Documentation Mac OS X Server includes onscreen help and a suite of orientation and administrative guides. The Documentation folder contains the Getting Started guide in PDF format.

"

(Via Downloads - Mac OS X - Application Updates.)

WOODCRAFT

The use of an axe and hatchet—Best woods for special purposes—What
to do when you are lost—Nature’s compasses

The word “woodcraft” simply means skill in anything which pertains to the woods. The boy who can read and understand nature’s signboards, who knows the names of the various trees and can tell which are best adapted to certain purposes, what berries and roots are edible, the habits of game and the best way to trap or capture them, in short the boy that knows how to get along without the conveniences of civilization and is self-reliant and manly, is a student of woodcraft. No one can hope to become a master woodsman. What he learns in one section may be of little value in some other part of the country.
A guide from Maine or Canada might be comparatively helpless in Florida or the Tropics, where the vegetation, wild animal life, and customs of the woods are entirely different. Most of us are hopeless tenderfeet anywhere, just like landlubbers on shipboard. The real masters of woodcraft—Indians, trappers, and guides—are, as a rule, men who do not even know the meaning of the word “woodcraft.”
Some people think that to know woodcraft, we must take it up with a teacher, just as we might learn to play golf or tennis. It is quite different from learning a game. Most of what we learn, we shall have to teach ourselves. Of course we must profit from the experience and observation of others, but no man’s opinion can take the place of the evidence of our own eyes. A naturalist once told me that chipmunks never climb trees. I have seen a chipmunk on a tree so I know that he is mistaken. As a rule the natives in any section only know enough woods-lore or natural history to meet their absolute needs. Accurate observation is, as a rule, rare among country people unless they are obliged to learn from necessity. Plenty of boys born and raised in the country are ignorant of the very simplest facts of their daily experience. They could not give you the names of a dozen local birds or wildflowers or tell you the difference between a mushroom and a toadstool to save their lives.

GRUB LIST

Ten lbs. bacon, half a ham, 4 cans corned beef, 2 lbs. cheese, 3 lbs. lard, 8 cans condensed milk, 8 lbs. hard tack, 10 packages soda crackers, 6 packages sweet crackers, 12-1/2 lbs. of wheat flour, 12-1/2 lbs. of yellow cornmeal, can baking powder, ½ bushel potatoes, 1 peck onions, 3 lbs. ground coffee, ½ lb. tea, sack salt, 7 lbs. granulated sugar, 3 packages prepared griddle cake flour, 4 packages assorted cereals, including oatmeal, 4 lbs. rice, dried fruits, canned corn, peas, beans, canned baked beans, salmon, tomatoes, sweetmeats and whatever else you like.
Be sure to take along plenty of tin boxes or tight wooden boxes to keep rain and vermin away from the food. Tell your grocer to pack the stuff for a camping trip and to put the perishable things in tight boxes as far as possible.
If you are going to move camp, have some waterproof bags for the flour. If you can carry eggs and butter, so much the better. A tin cracker box buried in the mud along some cold brook or spring makes an excellent camper’s refrigerator especially if it is in the shade. Never leave the food exposed around camp. As soon as the cook is through with it let some one put it away in its proper place where the flies, ants, birds, sun, dust, and rain cannot get at it.
Always examine food before you cook it. Take nothing for granted. Once when camping the camp cook for breakfast made a huge pot of a certain brand of breakfast food. We were all tucking it away as only hungry boys can, when some one complained that caterpillars were dropping from the tree into his bowl. We shifted our seats—and ate some more, and then made the astonishing discovery that the breakfast food was full of worms. We looked at the package and found that the grocers had palmed off some stale goods on us and that the box was fairly alive. We all enjoy the recollection of it more than we did the actual experience.
It is impossible in a book of this kind to say very much about how to cook. That subject alone has filled some very large books. We can learn some things at home provided that we can duplicate the conditions in the woods. So many home recipes contain eggs, milk and butter that they are not much use when we have none of the three. There is a book in my library entitled “One Hundred Ways to Cook Eggs” but it would not do a boy much good in the woods unless he had the eggs. If you ask your mother or the cook to tell you how to raise bread or make pies and cakes, be sure that you will have the same ingredients and tools to work with that she has.
It might be well to learn a few simple things about frying and boiling, as both of these things can be done even by a beginner over the camp fire. There are a few general cooking rules that I will attempt to give you and leave the rest for you to learn from experience.
You use bacon in the woods to furnish grease in the frying pan for the things that are not fat enough themselves to furnish their own grease.
Condensed milk if thinned with water makes a good substitute for sweet milk, after you get used to it.
To make coffee, allow a tablespoonful of ground coffee to each cup of water. Better measure both things until you learn just how full of water to fill the pot to satisfy the wants of your party. Do not boil coffee furiously. The best way is not to boil it at all but that would be almost like telling a boy not to go swimming. Better let it simmer and when you are ready for it, pour in a dash of cold water to settle the grounds and see that no one shakes the pot afterward to stir up grounds—and trouble.
A teaspoonful of tea is enough for two people. This you must not boil unless you want to tan your stomach. Pour boiling water on the tea and let it steep.
Good camp bread can be made from white flour, one cup; salt, one teaspoonful; sugar, one teaspoonful and baking powder, one teaspoonful. Wet with water or better with diluted condensed milk. Pour in a greased pan and bake in the reflector oven until when you test it by sticking a wooden splinter into it, the splinter will come out clean without any dough adhering to it.
If you want to make the kind of bread that has been the standard ration for campers for hundreds of years you must eat johnny-cake or pone. It is really plain corn bread. Personally I like it better than any of the raised breads or prepared flours that are used in the woods. It should always be eaten hot and always broken by the hands. To cut it with a knife will make it heavy. The ingredients are simply one quart of yellow meal, one teaspoonful of salt and three cups—one and one-half pints—of warm water. Stir until the batter is light and bake for a short hour. Test it with the wooden splinter the same as wheat bread. It may be baked in an open fire on a piece of flat wood or by rolling up balls of it, you can even roast it in the ashes. A teaspoonful of sugar improves it somewhat and it can be converted into cake by adding raisins or huckleberries. For your butter, you will use bacon grease or gravy.
Indian meal, next to bacon, is the camper’s stand-by. In addition to the johnny-cake, you can boil it up as mush and eat with syrup or condensed milk and by slicing up the cold mush, if there is any left, you can fry it next day in a spider.
The beginner at cooking always makes the mistake of thinking that to cook properly you must cook fast. The more the grease sputters or the harder the pot boils, the better. As a rule, rapid boiling of meat makes it tough. Game and fish should be put on in cold water and after the water has boiled, be set back and allowed to simmer. Do not throw away the water you boil meat in. It will make good soup—unless every one in camp has taken a hand at salting the meat, as is often the case.
All green vegetables should be crisp and firm when they are cooked. If they have been around camp for several days and have lost their freshness, first soak them in cold water. A piece of pork cooked with beans and peas will give them a richer flavor. The water that is on canned vegetables should be poured off before cooking. Canned tomatoes are an exception to this rule, however.
Save all the leftovers. If you do not know what else to do with them, make a stew or soup. You can make soup of almost anything. The Chinese use birds’ nests and the Eskimos can make soup of old shoes. A very palatable soup can be made from various kinds of vegetables with a few bones or extract of beef added for body.
The length of time to cook things is the most troublesome thing to the beginner. Nearly everything will take longer than you think. Oatmeal is one of the things that every beginner is apt to burn, hence the value of the double boiler.
Rice is one of the best camp foods if well cooked. It can be used in a great variety of ways like cornmeal. But beware! There is nothing in the whole list of human food that has quite the swelling power of rice. Half a teacupful will soon swell up to fill the pot. A tablespoonful to a person will be an ample allowance and then, unless you have a good size pot to boil it in, have some one standing by ready with an extra pan to catch the surplus when it begins to swell.
There are certain general rules for cooking which may help the beginner although they are not absolute.
Mutton, beef, lamb, venison, chicken, and large birds or fish will require from ten to twenty minutes’ cooking for each pound of weight. The principal value of this is to at least be sure that you need not test a five-pound chicken after it has been cooking fifteen minutes to see if it is done.
Peas, beans, potatoes, corn, onions, rice, turnips, beets, cabbage, and macaroni should, when boiled, be done in from twenty to thirty minutes. The surest test is to taste them. They will be burned in that many seconds, if you allow the water to boil off or put them in the middle of a smoky fire where they cannot be watched.
Fried things are the easiest to cook because you can tell when they are done more easily. Fried food however is always objectionable and as little of it should be eaten as possible. You are not much of a camp cook if a frying pan is your only tool.
A bottle of catsup or some pickles will often give just the right taste to things that otherwise seem to be lacking in flavor.
In frying fish, always have the pan piping hot. Test the grease by dropping in a bread crumb. It should quickly turn brown. “Piping hot” does not mean smoking or grease on fire. Dry the fish thoroughly with a towel before putting them into the pan. Then they will be crisp and flaky instead of grease-soaked. The same rule is true of potatoes. If you put the latter on brown butcher’s paper when they are done, they will be greatly improved.
Nearly every camper will start to do things away from home that he would never think of doing under his own roof. One of these is to drink great quantities of strong coffee three times a day. If you find that after you turn in for the night, you are lying awake for a long time watching the stars and listening to the fish splashing in the lake or the hoot owl mournfully “too-hooing” far off in the woods, do not blame your bed or commence to wonder if you are not getting sick. Just cut out the coffee, that’s all.